Categories
Berlin

Berlin’s San Franciscans

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Summer has passed which means at least a third of San Francisco’s nomads have wandered though Berlin. The two cities are obvious matches for one another: both with their own versions of alternative lifestyles, young spirits, immigrants, and deeply complex socio-political issues.
Bay Area techies and house heads love coming to this cheap, spacious, creative, more underground, concrete version of San Francisco. Berliners regularly seem charmed by the optimistic dreamers and coastal views.

“When the wall came down, everything became possible.” That’s what native Berliners tell me about the magic of the German capital.

And it’s that very ideal seems to draw Gold Rushers to Berlin: possibility. I’m curious how many will stay. San Francisco used to offer creative, expressive, grand possibilities. Almost anyone could try on a new religion, new style, new sexuality, new job, new politic, new beliefs. The city would celebrate whoever you want to be this year, this day, this hour, and it didn’t matter how much money you had.

Silicon Valley looms over San Francisco like the evening fog. If you’re unprepared, you’ll be left shivering in Dolores Park. Even if you can pull off living in SF economically (hello rent control!) and will put up with smelly streets and sloppy public transit, the new rich culture makes many other city charms, that possibility thing I was talking about, much more difficult.

Which brings us back to Berlin. It’s an incredible place for San Franciscans to take a holiday. But living here is not so easy. We are not so patient with inconveniences. Rules, paperwork, structure, and formalities. Learning German is difficult but I believe is necessarily if you will actually LIVE here. If you’re not white, some things just won’t come easy. Most of you probably read my racism post and a lot of you disagreed so let’s not get too deep into that here.

Several of my German friends have sadly left this city because they couldn’t find a work. People in my demographic want to live here but the money and jobs are in Munich and Frankfurt. Good work seems to be hard to find in Berlin.

There is a tech scene here but VCs seem hesitant to take leaps on innovative concepts and practitioners are only now starting to get permission to do user research. And I hear my German startup friends complaining about legal barriers. It’s hard to launch in Germany! Techies need to ship. Things get pretty rough if you can’t move fast and break things.

I love Berlin. I love it so much. I think I’ll live here again someday. But despite all the problems in San Francisco, I haven’t found another city that has both a fetish for fetishes and Redwood trees on demand

Categories
Travel

The Amalfi Coast & Capri: a warm and busy Big Sur

lil bae

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Sweeping ocean views and charming winding roads draw people from around the world to the Amalfi Coast. However, if you live in California this is a place you can skip.
It’s obvious there was a time this Coastal paradise was a hidden gem. But it’s now discovered and congested with lost tourists, smoggy busses, and high prices.

No question, my friend, another California resident and I had a great time. But mostly because we had 9 months of life to catch up on–and Amalfi is great for that. It’s also an obvious honeymoon spot since there’s my much to do there but nestle up with a loved one and watch the waves roll in.
Capri is obviously more expensive but equally congested. The times we hung out by the pool or lazed at the beach or our hotel terrace were the highlights.

Surely having a car gives you more flexibility to explore the coastline (like big sur) but among the traffic and motion sick-inducing roads isn’t worth it for me. Amalfi is two hours from Naples and even getting to Capri from the airport requires a ride into town and a ferry. The boat rides for us ended up being more of a hassle than a charm. However, don’t be afraid to go up to the top “first class” deck, there seems to be no difference in tickets.
The food was good, but it wasn’t great. I’ve eaten better in other Italian cities so you’re defiantly going to Amalfi again for the views. Another perk over Big Sur is the temperature and access to beaches.


Though the beaches are rocky not sandy, the water is turquoise clear and refreshing on a hot day. We luckily stayed here during a harvest moon which mean light was always twinkling over the vast ocean.

If you go, here are a few recommendations.

– You need more than a long weekend to slow down your pace here.

– Choose a hotel with a good restaurant and far from Amalfi

– Choose the lemon over chocolate desserts

– Spend a day at the Artisiti Beach. For $40 you can rent two chairs, an umbrella, and get cocktails and a yummy lunch. They have changing rooms and kind people.

– Get an ocean view hotel and wake up for sunrise. Don’t worry, there is plenty of time for naps

– Ignore foursquare, the recommendations didn’t always match the experience

– There are less expensive places in the world to hang in your hotel with an Ocean View with fewer tourists

– if you do go, enjoy doing nothing fully!

Categories
Berlin

Berlin’s Burners

Most feedback I get about Burning Man in Berlin is:

  • We have a lot of events and places to go inspired/similar to Burning Man
  • I’d really like to go but it’s very far and expensive
  • I go to the regional burns
  • I’ve never heard of it

I was dancing at Berghain the day the man burned and saw a nice young man with playa goggles on his head. As a Bay Area American I really try not to talk about Burning Man especially at festivals and clubs. I’ve found some friends to (rightfully) get defensive about their events because Americans celebrate the desert festival so hard not making much room for other conversations. But in this case, I couldn’t not ask the goggled man if he too was having a little playa moment.

Unfortunately he had no idea what I was talking about. I’m more surprised how far of the the desert art festival has spread in such subtle ways and yet still barely exists.

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I put in a lot of effort in several forums and groups to get a group of Burners together, but no bite. People who had been to the original playa in Nevada.

In the end I had three friends over from very different worlds. We wrote down our new year’s goals, desires, and things to burn away and kept them in our pockets. The wood temple we intended to Burn wasn’t possible so we built our own man from my art supply paper and took it behind the RAW warehouses. In front of a rock statue on a bed of wet sand I lit two incense sticks, dropped in our wishes, drank some red wine from the bottle, and sent up some flames. It was sweet, primal, and intimate.

When Burning Man does come up in Berlin conversations, and sometimes it does, I appreciate the criticism. “Isn’t San Francisco trying to shape the future? How can all those people spend all that money and ignore the homeless? Isn’t it horrible for the environment? Why does it cost so much? Is it a techie networking event? ” The list goes on.

None of these criticisms are new. But in Berlin the criticism stand on their own compared to at home when someone will quickly reaffirm that we should go anyway because it’s; fun. I’m not feeling drawn to return after two years of horrible weather. But this year looked so good. And one week my friends decide to take a vacation at the same time with only the right distractions is temping.

Categories
Berlin

Berlin’s lakes

Escape from the concrete jungle during hot summer days seems to define the season. All winter and spring I heard the long fantasies for long days of light bathing in cool pools. On the hottest days the city empties and you know exactly where everyone has gone.

There are a few small lakes near Berlin but I’m told they’re accessible but dirty.

 

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Caputh Lake Potsdam (West)

This is my favorite lake near Berlin so far. I’m not poster child for hiking and camping so I appreciate when a few services are available on hand. With a 9 Euro entrance fee you can get a beach bed, access to an excellent cocktail bar, a shower, little changing area, and slightly maintained swimming area. There was a bit more a family crowd here but the sand (in and out of the water) was very soft and the children well behaved. There are two routes below but honestly they both felt like a zip because the whole ride is through the trees. There’s one especially good spot to eat nearby, I don’t know the name off the top of my head but I can get it for you. Foursquare kept yelling to me not to eat in the restaurant. I liked the lake because it felt slightly more private, cleaner, and had a little extra care. The mojiots were a dream come true and without planning all the logistics you’ll have time to make a bomb picnic.

 

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for a more local feel..

 

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1:24hr and 34km ride
40min and 12km ride to from Potsdam to Caputh
1:24 hours and a 35km ride
1:24 hours and a 35km ride to Caputh from Potsdam

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Liebnitzsee Lake (North)

This spot north of the city is a favorite to Berliners. It has calm, beautiful trails around, an island for camping, and an overall joyful vibe. A lot of swimmers bring rafts so they can swim from the main lake over to the island that has campers. The island has a tarzan style rope where you can swing off and land into the lake. Too fun. From the nearest train station it’s a 12km bike ride partially on the road and partially among the trees.

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40min and 12km ride to Liptzensee

 

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Flos und Los Boat

Of course some days are not for swimming in which case hopefully you bet on the weather, planned far in advance and rented a boat. Flos Un Los 10er Cabrio + Grill is our favorite ride. Good price, two floors, plenty of room for a sound system, a toilet, covered area, and doesn’t require a driver. It’s a little annoying to get here but that seemed to be the case with all the boat companies near Berlin. From their pickup you can take a very route through the greens or industrial former East Berlin.

And now onto something so obvious you might forget…

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Spreefahrt Tour

The “tour of Berlin” boat tour is an obvious move for parents, but actually I too had a great time. The BWSG Spreefahrt Tour was in English and German which is the first plus. They have drinks and food service and different length tours. The one-hour tour was a bit short for European style relaxing but still good. The pickup is centrally located near Hackershermarkt so you can fit into any kind of tourism you probably have that day. The best part? The tour guide didn’t talk the entire time. There was ample quiet time to enjoy the beautiful scenes of Berlin actually chat with the people you’re with.

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And if you can’t make it on a boat, there’s one more option:

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Badeschiff

Leave it to Berlin to drop a pool in the middle of the Spree. Amongst the waterfront clubs like Club der Visionare, Ipse, and Watergate is this swimming spot. It’s open all day, serves food, drinks, has a beach, and most importantly a pool (overlooking my office). If you can’t or don’t want to do all the planning that comes with a boat, swim in the pool and watch them and the kayakers float by.